After years of trying different brands, and feeling frustrated, I am happily wed to a Sardinian brand of whole peeled plum tomatoes called Antonella. I pass the entire contents of the tin through a food mill, a piece of equipment so useful for making tomato sauce, I wish we could give one away with this book. An alternative to the mill is a potato masher. Having learned the hard way, I begin away from the heat, putting 6 tablespoons of olive oil (no less), and a peeled and split clove of garlic into my deep sauté pan. Then the pan goes on a medium-low flame so the oil warms gently and the garlic does the gentlest shimmy for about 3 minutes, and it smells sweet. Now the milled tomatoes, chilli and at least 12 leaves of basil. I let the sauce almost, but not quite boil, then reduce to a simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, the last 5 uncovered with me stirring so it thickens and takes on that slightly grainy aspect and the oil is visible at the edges. I lift the spaghetti out of the boiling water when it is a minute off the al dente, so I can finish cooking it with the sauce, add a handful of grated Parmesan, swishing so the starch is released, the cheese melts and everything comes together. Mixing can also be done in a bowl.